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As it is it is earns a 9. Whats the best camera for around $2000? They seem to be really good for NB work. never mind.. confirmed from others that F19 is indeed the one that is excluded on this lens! I typically shoot with Canon lenses, but the potential for low light photography (whether thats astrophotography or the ability to film at dusk) caught my interest. It's small, light, cheap and extremely wide but is it any good? This is a fully manual lens, meaning that it does not have autofocus, and you must manually select the f-stop . Simple fact is the Samyang 135/2 is a remarkably good lens for the price, and it offers a set of optical characteristics that typically cost 2-4x more. You're sour grapes man, you wish it were you who wrote the article. Check them out for yourself! OK guysTOS rule number one "Posts that are not respectful of other individuals (be they members or not) are not welcome here.". http://www.idyll.com/laneysat (purchased for $1,100), reviewed October 5th, 2008 It has no chromatic aberration, and no hint of star deformities in the corners. here are some links to some pics taken with the lens: This has several advantages from less demanding tracking accuracy, to being able to use a lower ISO setting. In this review, however, I am using the lens on a crop sensor (APS-C) Canon EOS 60Da, which puts the field of view at 12.4 degrees. And you can even crop a 135 efl with today's sensors should you actually need it. Could use a few updates. So, let's see where it falls short of perfection: Also, I used to have a Nikon 180/2.8 ED IF AF and 300/4 ED IF AF. The Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC is one of the most affordable and practical lenses for astrophotography on the market. Preaching to the choir! A higher-res Blackmagic Studio Camera just dropped. The difference between modern and old telephoto lenses is probably similar to the difference between my APO and an old Jaegers 5in F5. How's that for an endorsement? I almost bought one, but couldn't manage that focal length and DoF with moving subjects and manual focus. At around $900 US very good price for quality no IS. It's Film Friday, so let's take a look back at the film format that gave APS-C sensors their name! Manually focusing a lens for astrophotography is nothing new, but the manual aperture ring adjustments may feel a little strange at first. Find out what happens when Chris shoots some very expired APS film using old Canon and Nikon cameras. While there are certainly pricey 135mm F2 lenses out there (such as the aforementioned Sigma 135mm F1.8 Art, or the Carl Zeiss 135mm) there are a couple that give you extreme value for the money. I have no experience with that lens, Jerry Lodriguss however published a review of that lens on his websitehttp://www.astropix.NIKON_180MM.HTM. And now important part: This lens can be stopped down if desired effect is not required and no, with 85/1.8 you will never get this effect. One way to combat potential soft images and chasing perfect focus all night is to stop the lens down to F/2.8 or even F/4. A series of such images can be digitally stacked to produce excellent results. They are by nature designed to compromise by magnification and distance, and are therefore not optically optimized at any single setting. Some reviewers have listed lack of IS as a "Con". Recently, the FAA announced that recreational drone pilots in the USA can request LAANC authorization to fly in controlled airspace at night. My tests on it are described on http://pikespeakphoto.com/tests/canonlens135.html, i have never been a prime lens fan, just seems to leave you feeling trapped in a single dimension. Canon CR-N700 4K PTZ Camera with 15x Zoom. I ordered this lens on Amazon, utilizing my Amazon Prime membership. Excellent build quality, fast auto focus, and its fast. Perhaps this impression of unreal sharpness is strengthened by the contrast to the extremely creamy bokeh you typically get in the same photo. What's it got and what's it like to use? A Canon 70-200L IS II at 200mm at f2.8 has all the same characteristics of the Canon 135L. You won't get the excessive background blurr -- which for the beginning photographer may actually be a good thing. Can I assume that this article applies only to full frame & not to micro four thirds? The lens is not weather-sealed, so you definitely dont want to leave your camera and lens (and your tracking mount!) $449.00. The lens hood is not petal-shaped, which is great news for those using this lens for astrophotography. Rokinon lenses are made in Korea, and so is the Samyang variation. How about the sigma 50mm f1.4 Art? Definitely now on my to-buy list. It's tiny compared to almost everything else in the 85-135 range, and used properly, it can produce results that hold up to my DC (all other factors being equal such as subject distance, f-stop, lighting, etc.). (purchased for $900), reviewed December 4th, 2006 I am a complete amateur at photography in general and this is all new to me so thank you for all the information and videos. (37% is difference, so you get little more, about 15.5Mpix) ". Backwards compatible (film). #light_bulb I would disagree. There is no doubt that the 135L deserves it excellent reputation for image quality. There is some controversy about the use of UV filters, but I found that a good UV filter significantly improves contrast, sharpens small star images, and reduces chromatic aberration. Of course, when it comes to astrophotography, this can create some challenges as well. It's kinda curious how topsy turvy things have gotten since this article, just 4 years later, I think 135mm is possibly more niche than ever yet Samyang finally delivered an AF version of this concept at a lighter weight for E mount, but also at a higher price. One is its size and weight, which requires a sturdy support on the telescope. A single, 90-second exposure using the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC at F/4. Some APOs can be fitted with pricey telecompressors, but those invariably result in vignetting and coma. Both the 135 and 200mm Canon l lenses are winners IMHO. Really like the large focusing ring. Its fast f/2.0 maximum aperture is effective in low light and enables shallow depth of field control. http://www.radiantlite.com/2009/01/canon-135mm-f2l-usm-mini-review.html Overall, the lens feels very solid and well constructed. The 135mm F2 lens design is truly special, and in this article (and the video I made), I want to try to convince you as well. It is by far the fastest focusing, best bokeh, and lowest light lens you will ever find. There have been a lot of Tele-Tessars over the years. For DPReview, it's also an opportunity for a good old-fashioned camera fight. Rokinon FE14M-C Lens. Hi Thomas As far as I know, the Nikon D500 is not modified for astrophotography out of the box (it includes a built in IR cut filter that blocks much of the 656nm wavelength). The 135 is lighter, but that's its only advantage. Yeah I agree that the sentiment that they were designed to be used stopped down is wrong as they were designed to be used wide open because they had to be for speed (my point above). Juksu, your point is well taken. If anything the argument in favor of even smaller and lighter 85/1.4s (like the 600g Sigma DN) is stronger than ever, and I say that as someone that loves shooting at 135-150mm. Especially for beginning astrophotographers, who should first invest most of their finances into a good telescope mount, telephoto lenses are an excellent and affordable solution. My work requires auto-focus. You can use Stellarium to preview the image scale with the 135mm lens and your DSLR. Bokeh is buttery smooth, best you can get from a 135mm. We sell a wide variety of digital cameras from all the top brands like Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic, Olympus, Fujifilm, Pentax, Leica, Samsung, and more. Finally, although we don't explicitly test for it, we have to note that this lens' bokeh (rendering of out-of-focus objects) is really excellent as well. These include canon lens for night photography along with good budget lenses for astrophotography. This lens flares easily and the flare can be especially ugly if a sun or flash are in the frame. Samyang 135mm f2, 100mm f2.8, and asperical 16mm f2.8. Just like the above samples, most are just bad. So.. its like there is one F stop not being used by the lens..how do you know what click is for what F stop?? So there - it is not a perfect object. I own Samyang 135 f2 for Nikon Mount and indeed it is incredible value lens. OM System's latest lens is a whopper of a macro, featuring optical stabilization, full weather sealing, up to 2x magnification and a whole lot more. Images that sing. (purchased for $900). I bought this lens after reading your great review for my Nikon D5300. Its actually kind of neat to watch! Better than nothing I guess, would depend on how much it raises the price. People mistake "Bokeh" to blurry background, what is very very common mistake. Colour and contrast is great. I have been following your work both on YT and here from Japan for a while. Used with a FF body the DOF can be unforgiving, but if you nail focus the results can be magnificent. She doesn't look like she is there. As soon as e.g. I really wanted to use, and like, a 135mm f2 lens so I bought the Canon version. To achieve creamy bokeh, a lens should have a wide maximum aperture and a long focal length. Part of it might be that they were designed for film photography and modern digital sensor are far more demanding in terms of optical quality. Light falloff (vignetting) gets pretty high (0.73 EV wide open, but drops to 0.3 EV at f/2.8, and only 0.17 EV at f/4. Build quality: excellent. My copy has very stiff manual focus though and is quite heavy. The Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 was the first lens I had ever used like this, and these aspects do not hinder the astrophotography experience whatsoever. Your Baader filter passes 420-680nm and, in theory, a good APO should be able to focus that part of the spectrum with no chromatic aberration. Although typically unused in astrophotography, I did get a chance to see the beautiful bokeh this lens creates when shooting at F/2. Otherwise, on FF body this lens is wonderful. however i started to realise how every subject might actually be a cardboard cutout being photographed. 24/28mm, 50mm, 100mm, 200mm. This brings me to my question. With an effective focal length of roughly 216mm when coupled with a Canon crop sensor body, the field of view is nearly identical to the one youd find on a full-frame camera with a 200mm telephoto lens. I have the Sony SaL 135F1.8 Zeiss Lens and think that is excellent. When i check a F stop chart, i see 15 stops if i count the main, and the secondary ones: 2, 2.4, 2.8, 3.3, 4, 4.8, 5.6, 6.7, 8, 9.5, 11, 13, 16, 19, 22. Perfect lens on the same level as CZ! Ive set the f-stop to F/2.8, to sharpen up the stars a bit. i also have the 300mm f4.5 non ED nikkor which is quite nice . http://www.adstateagent.com | http://www.printradiant.com | http://www.hitsticker.com, I love this lens. the lens is built strong, very strong. I stopped reading after the part where someone I don't know told me I "should" be doing something. Deserves to be in the camera hall of fame. Stuff I used to take the photos in this video:- The Canon 135mm f2 lens: https://amzn.to/346Paz7- Sony A7III Camera: https://amzn.to/2xM776q- Sony Grip exten. The shallow depth of field present at its maximum aperture does indeed create a pleasing bokeh. As such, it applies most directly here to areas of an image that are out of focus. The RedCat is deeper at 250mm, and after that, youre into 300-400mm territory which pulls galaxies and nebulae even closer. If you have pictures taken using the Rokinon 135mm F/2 lens, please feel free to share your results in the comments section (links to Astrobin, Flickr or your personal gallery are fine). Creamy smooth bokeh. It is NOT extremely sharp wide open, it often requires massive AF adjustment on DLSRs (sometimes beyond what the body allows as micro-adjustment) and AF is not reliable enough to consistently ensure sharp focus at full aperture. They account for much of the disagreement that we see on-line (but not for the rudeness and viciousness of some of it). The duck and cat are really the only good shots. Read on to find out which you should be using and why! Do you have a link to Yuri's photo stream? You don't have to worry about shopping for a better lens anymore. @juksu - you're such a liar. Why take a step back from 250 to sit between the RedCat and the 24-105? On the 135/2 all you've got is the bare metal. Lens hood - when I bought this lens years ago the included hood was rather cheap (perhaps Canon has updated the hood) by comparison with other hoods. Great lens, but I can't understand why Canon can't control quality. Olympus 4x Optical Zoom f/2 Lens; 25-100mm (35mm Equivalent) Show More. 30-35% diameter reduction is usually necessary on "good" lenses. Trully sharp accross whole frame from f2 on 5d. You got a criticism fine say it politely, and too the point. The sigma 150mm f2.8 tests very well, zeiss 135mm apo sonnar, and leica 180mm f3.5 apo all proven performers on star tests. tanie i dobre opinie 9 opatek lub Biznes HUMAN Sport Insect Architektura Specjalne Krajobrazy Martwa natura Podry People 2023 Obiektyw o staej ogniskowej Pocketable. I haven't seen compassion with the excellent Zeiss lens you quote (That BTW costs at least 3.5-4 times, yet a good comparison as similar to Zeiss, Samyang believes in providing the exceptional Image Quality, with Manual focus) but compare with Canon's L 135mm F2.0, that by many reviews, is considered as one the best Canon lenses ever made (Not . (And cost less too). When I was teaching photography in 70's at a junior college, I critiqued students photos, but I never did so harshly. There's just nothing there. Any experience with this camera and would this lens be a good fit? I'm thinking a modern (but expensive) Nikon 200mm f/2.0, 300mm f/4 or f/2.8 or a Borg telephoto/telescope would all be very good. 1. Second night out with mine right now and I am here in the comments looking for the part number or link! Nice article for beginners.It's all in the eyes of the beholder. Super sharp from f2. The OP admits he limited experience with lenses other than what he has. This allows for less aggressive camera settings for night photography such as using a lower ISO setting and shorter exposure. I heard it's very sharp and well corrected. Because it manage to do so. $399 00. It is a heavy lens. What I am trying to avoid is spending another $1,100 on a quality APO, and instead using my existing Nikkor 180mm ED lens with a Baader-modified Canon 450D that I just obtained. @ Juksu - you're pathologically clueless. To remedy this, I reduced the star size in post, and I started shooting at F/4 to really tighten things up. the EOS-clip filters are compatible with all EF lenses but not with the EF-s. My copy is 12-years-old and still delivers at over 75 weddings a year. I got mine for $60.00 on Craigslist but seen them on eBay for $100 and less all the time. thanks for the write-up.. i just got this lens and have just been trying it out. This is the EF-M series version. The inset picture is a magnified view of the bottom right corner of the frame. Here is a recent ones taken with the canon xs and a lens. But, since fast 300mm ED lenses are beyond my toy budget, I would appreciate seeing magnified center and corner test images of actual star fields. These lenses can be had on eBay in mint condition for around $70, and are probably the most price efficient optical instrument in the world. What is it like shooting with one today? p.s. What's the best camera for shooting sports and action? 8MP is plenty for the usual 8x10 or 16x20 portrait print. " The colder temperatures will make DSLR astrophotography much more practical, and there are plenty of great targets to choose from. Bottom line, this is just an outstanding lens by any measure, one that makes clear why you'd want to pay the freight for expensive prime glass. Asahi Optical's Pentax KX was one of the first cameras with this lens mount, acting as a midrange model in the lineup.

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